Saturday, October 5, 2019

Heading Home

After five wonderful weeks in France it is time to go HOME. 



On the plane from Paris to Chicago.


All settled into our seats for the very long flight to Chicago and connecting flight to Denver. 




Kim's storage in her sleeping pod.


Happiness was seeing our bikes arrive safely in France and being unloaded from the plane upon arrival in Denver. 

We have to credit the kindly baggage handlers who did not trash our boxes or damage our bikes. A special thanks to the TSA inspectors who opened the boxes in both directions, made sure the boxes were properly repacked, and even enclosed our red baggage straps. 

Since our flight did not land in Denver until 6 PM we decided to stay at a hotel for the night and drive back to Vail the next morning. By Sunday night every bag was unpacked, the bikes were reassembled, several loads of laundry were done. It was great to be away but there is something about coming home - especially to such a wonderful place as Vail - and sleeping in our own bed. 


By the numbers:

Travel Days: 33 days

Riding Days: 18 days 

Miles: 618.25 miles

Elevation: 28,498 feet

Flats: 1

Crashes: 0


Finally, this brings our 2019 France trip to an end. 

Overall it was a great success as measured in miles ridden, pastries consumed, alcohol consumed, and all the interesting and humbling places we visited and people we met. 




Friday, October 4, 2019

A Day In Paris

When we decided to spend our last full day in Paris with the Fullers we deferred to them on what we should do. Since this was their first visit and already had tours scheduled for other sites we agreed on the Louvre. 

Depending on your source the Louvre is the second most visited site, ahead of the Eiffel tower (3rd), and behind Disneyland (1st). Since these numbers include both domestic and foreign travelers it is understandable that fellow Europeans would prefer Disneyland (great for kids) over the Louvre (not great for kids). 

Since it was only about 2 KM (a little over a mile) from our hotel we decided to walk to the museum. Paris is a great walking city and a feast for the eyes and ears. A benefit of the centuries old height restriction (about five stories) there are no canyons of sky scrapers to block the sun and give that claustrophobic feeling. New since our last visit is the proliferation of bikes, scooters, and similar people movers. Darting in and out of the pedestrian crossings makes walking a blood sport. 



As we got closer this sign confirmed we were going in the right direction. 



We decided to take a tour instead of venturing around the museum on our own. The primary reason was to see the Mona Lisa which was an ordeal even with our tour group privileges. 


The iconic I. M. Pei designed glass pyramid. This area was a parking lot on our first visit in 1967. 


The pyramid from below. This addition was controversial and viewed as a grotesque modern appendage to a beautifully ornate Renaissance palace. This was a minor distraction as compared to the massive underground shopping mall guarding the only entrance/exit to the museum.  


Steve and I emerge from the new group reception area. 

Now for the most disappointing aspect of our tour. With millions of painting and art objects the number one attraction is the Mona Lisa. Painted by Leonardo da Vinci in 1503 it was found in his studio when he died in 1519. This being the 500th anniversary of his death this most famous of his works has been elevated to superstar status. 

Most of the visitors come specifically to see the picture and over 80% leave after their brief glimpse ignoring the other gazillion items in the building. So much for art appreciation. 

The line (in Disney fashion) snakes around and up four floors to the room where the painting is on display. This consumed almost half of our 2 hour tour. Small groups are led into a viewing area for about two minutes to see and photograph it. During our long wait the guide delivered a lengthy description and history of the painting. Knowing he would not have enough time during our viewing time this took our mind off the long wait and aching feet.  

There has been much speculation and you could fill a library with all that has been written about it. The biggest question is who is the subject. Some say it was the wife of a prominent patron while others have juxtaposed Leonardo's self portrait and believe it could be his own likeness. All in all it is captivating even without the hype. 




Although it is his most famous painting it is not his best nor biggest (maybe the last supper). We did see it when it was in New York in the sixties during its traveling years. Due to its fragility and transportation costs and logistics it will now remain in the Louvre for eternity. 


After our viewing moment it was more interesting to photograph the adoring crowds of picture takers. 


Another photo of me standing in front of the Mona Lisa. 




Steve and I with the "what's all the fuss about" look on our faces. The whole experience was disappointing, especially knowing that we missed a lot of other stuff waiting in line. 


Winged Victory (aka Nike - the goddess of victory) - another famous must see sculpture. 


Our last stop before heading out the door was the Venus de Milo. It is more appropriately Aphrodite since it was sculpted by the Greeks.  




Another view of the pyramid from below. Irrespective of whether you think it belongs, it is quite impressive. 




A closer look with the sharp contrast between the old and the modern. 


The Eiffel Tower from the Louvre. 
Always an impressive site. 




The menu from one of the many Starbucks that now dot the Parisian landscape. Nestled between the Mc Donald's and other American exports the street-scape has dramatically changed since our first visit over 50 years ago. 

One of the things we always admired about Europe is that it is so European, but not so much anymore. 



A classic entrance to the underground looking toward the Gare de Nord. 

After the morning at the Louvre, a bistro lunch, and walk back to our hotel we headed to the train for a return to the Airport Hilton for our flight back home the next morning. 

Not sure when we will return but as Bogart said in Casablanca - "We will always have Paris" 








Thursday, October 3, 2019

Heading To Paris

Although our original plans were to spend another night in Brittany we cut our last destination short by one day to meet up with our friends, Steve and Laurie Fuller, in Paris. They were just starting their trip and had a free day before the start of their organized tours. Fortuitous timing.

We don't see them very often so in addition to sharing a Parisian experience with them it is always nice to catch up, wherever we are. Steve and I have been friends since 1954 (65 years ago) and lived around the block from each other. We attended the same elementary, Junior high school, High school, and college together. We have maintained our friendship over the years by attending each other's special occasions. They live only about ten minutes from Deena's house on Long Island so getting together is even easier. 

We left our last destination in darkness anticipating a 4 hour drive to the Paris airport. 


Sunrise was astounding.





After stopping at the Paris airport hotel to drop off our baggage we headed to the rental car drop off location. 


The Peugeot Rifter served us well. More than enough room for all our stuff, comfortable, drove well, but just a bit big for the narrow French roads.  


We caught a train from the airport to Gare de Nord station in Paris where our first Starbucks awaited us upon exiting. Too late in the day for caffeine so we just walked on by.  


After settling into our hotel room we needed some exercise so a walk through the streets of Paris was in order. Although some modern monstrosities have crept in here and there the older buildings are the most appealing.


Printemps - an iconic department store and Paris landmark since 1865. 
We walked by but did not go in, although we have visited on a prior trip to Paris. 



The area surrounding our hotel is named after the famous opera house featured in the musical about the Phantom. 




The exterior is impressive but the interior more so. One of the foremost attractions is the domed ceiling painted by Marc Chagall. We have the lithograph which depicts scenes from famous operas. 



Now under renovation, this was the first stop on our dessert challenge on a previous trip. We set out to forego dinner and attempt to have a dessert in ten different restaurants. One rule was you had to finish the entire serving. After the third stop we gave up worrying we would die of "sugar" overload. 


Dinner at a classic French restaurant. A relative newcomer opening in 1854. 


A toast to an evening out in Paris. 

We omitted the food photos but the Fullers had escargot and we had traditional French onion soup. 

Lovely meal.