Champ du Boult Ride 3

The word for today was "iffy" again. Weather forecasting here has been extremely accurate. If it says it will rain, it rains. If it says rain is unlikely, it has not rained. Today's forecast was cloudy, but no rain. So our hopes were high that we would get out early for our planned ride through the local countryside. 

However we woke up to a thick fog and damp roads from the overnight rain that stopped only a few hours before. Okay, we would wait until 10 AM before venturing out. 10 came and went but conditions still seemed "iffy". We were all dressed and ready to ride, took the bikes outside, looked around, then decided another pot of coffee and some more logs on the fire was a better choice. By 11:30 we were overloaded with coffee and antsy to get started, so conditions be damned off we went.  

We headed up the road to the local town and were surprised that the road was damp, but not wet. With all our riding clothes and initial up hill we warmed up quickly. 

Our first town along the route. I reversed the course direction which would get us past the Gathemo patisserie and heading to our coffee stop earlier in the ride.

Our hosts told us that the local shop in town was closed on Mondays, but failed to mention that the one in the next town was also closed. Actually we did not ask. 

With no pastries we could at least stop for coffee and the biscuits that come with it. 

Regardless of weather conditions Kim can not resist photographing all the funky stuff people display on their front lawns. 

This is especially true when it is cycling related. 

Well we arrived at our "coffee town" and guess what, the Tabac in that town was also closed. While Tabac translates to tobacco it doubles as a "watering hole" for the locals. 

No pastries, no coffee, what a bummer. 

We pushed on realizing that it was already lunch time and failed to bring anything to eat. Since we did not expect to return home until around 4 we could always have snacked on the biscuits we collected over the four weeks of coffee stops. 

Today's ride took us up, over, and around this hilly terrain so vehicle traffic was minimal but sharing the road with these farming behemoths was daunting. This guy was stopped when we rode by, but we passed a number of these tractors passing in the other direction on frightfully narrow roads. 

The tires on some of the harvesters seem enormous especially when passing no more than a meter away. One slip and we could be "pavement pizza". 

Today's ride was 37 miles long (not the longest) but required over 3100 feet of climbing (most so far). Fortunately the grades were humanly possible topping out at round 9%. Had we done the course in the original direction we would have encountered a 12.2% grade which was more fun as a downhill. 

The longest climb and most elevation gain came at the end of the ride as we were cruising (well maybe grinding) back to town. 

Kim looks happy. Wonder why. 

because we are turning into our driveway and the end of the ride. 

All in all it was a pleasant ride. Not the best of the trip, but with no rain, a bit of sun, few wrong turns, and warm enough to shed most of our clothes it was better than expected.

Tomorrow is a "rain day" according to predictions. Hopefully we can get in one more ride on Wednesday if we drive to a location with a dry forecast. Who knows. 

Bayeux Tapestry & Utah Beach Museum

When we arrived our hosts mentioned that a local tradition is to order your croissants and bread the day before from the local shop in their village. On our return from Mont Saint Michel yesterday we stopped in and asked Natalia, the proprietor, to reserve two plain croissants, one almond, and one chocolate for the next day - Sunday morning. 

When the sun finally came up after 8 I drove the 2 KM into town. When I arrived there were several cars and a delivery van parked out front. 

I parked, walked in, and tried to give the appearance that I was like every other local already waiting to have their orders filled. 

There was the delivery man unloading his wares with Natalia checking off the orders. 

He departed and she promptly started servicing the customers ahead of me. 

I nonchalantly walked around checking out the bar, pretending to understand the signs written in French, and surreptitiously snapping a few photos. 

She attended to Jean Pierre who walked out with his regular order of three baguettes.  

It was my turn. 

Just one baguette for me but don't forget the almond and chocolate croissants we ordered yesterday. 

She protested, Oh No these were a special order. 

With multiple hand gestures and some French sounding English words she remembered when Kim and I placed our order yesterday afternoon. Success!

A postcard of Champ du Boult from 1910. 

I arrived home to Kim's waiting arms and salivating mouth.

For a picture perfect Sunday morning Petite Déjeuner.

 By 10 AM with the rain still pelting on our window we headed toward our first tourist stop of the day. 

This lovely town is known for its famous tapestry (actually embroidered) depicting the epic defeat of the English (Saxons) by William the Conqueror in 1066. 

An amazing feature of this town is that although it is only a stones throw from the landing beaches of Normandy it escaped allied bombing. Turns out (as we learned in the museum) that a spy was able to relay to the allies that there were no Germans posted in Bayeux. No sense wasting bombs so the city was spared destruction.  

It may be known for its tapestry but no self respecting city would be caught without a cathedral. This place is no exception. 

After visiting the information center it was time for coffee. Tapestry can wait. Coffee was inauspicious and pastries were a no show, but while sitting outside we caught this couple putting their yippie yappie canine into a box on the the back and heading off to parts unknown. Actually we ran into them again at Utah Beach with pooch in tow. Nice "bike" if you are into those things. 

Had to take photo of the cathedral. Bet it looks familiar, like all the other ones we have seen on this and past trips. 

The tapestry (aka embroidery) is 270 meters in length. Like the dead sea scrolls it is long (very long) and about 24" high. Back in the days before the internet most people were illiterate and got their history from "picture books". 

So this pictorial history of William's, Duke of Normandy, conquest of England (Saxony) tells the tale in vivid color. Considering it is almost 1000 years old it has worn well. 

Turns out (as told by our audio guide) Edward the Confessor was without an heir so he decided to pass the crown to William, instead of Harold who was the son of Edward's former rival. He sent Harold to Normandy to tell William of his good fortune, and while there Harold swore allegiance to William. However, when Edward died he assumed the throne which did not go down well with William. So William launched a military campaign to depose Harold and establish his rightful claim to the English throne. One thing led to another and over 270 meters of tapestry we relived his voyage across the channel and siege and rout of Harold's forces at the battle of Hastings in October, 1066. There you have it (in less than one hour); I will leave the bloody details to your own research. 

So in a nutshell Harold screwed William and paid the price. And that is the truth. 

Before you go exit through the gift shop. 

A wall hanging of one of the depicted scenes. 

Or the charge up Hasting's Hill. 

The town has more attractions like this old factory powered by a waterwheel from the flow of the Aure river. 

One last look at the cathedral (notice the obligatory scaffolding) before moving on. 

Well it was not the biggest (we know that from Amiens) but very quiet for a Sunday. Guess all the parishioners slept in and had croissants for breakfast.  

A last look from another angle. 

It was now time to drive to the coast and Utah beach. 

But we needed to satisfy our hunger before tackling the museum. The name of this place is "Le Roosevelt" in honor of Teddy's son who was one of the oldest soldiers to come ashore on Utah beach. He is the only soldier buried at the American cemetery who did not die in France, but asked to have his remains interred there in honor of his wartime commitment.  

The restaurant is built on a bunker that became the communications center after the Americans took the beach and headed inland. 

The main attraction is the museum which was created by the local community of Sainte Marie du Mont to honor the Americans who liberated them from the Germans on June 6, 1944. 

The grounds around the museum have many artifacts on display, including this anti-tank barrier which covered the beaches all along the Normandy coastline. 

A Higgins boat which brought soldiers on shore.

Kim comfortably fell into line with the rest of the GI's.

I grabbed the wheel. 

My favorite kind of boat resting on dry land. 

The Red, White, and Blue along side of the Blue, White, and Red.

The museum is well done but far too long for us to conquer in our limited time. A film was one of the highlights with amazing footage of the actual landing and push inland. Some of the clips were actually in color. It was insightful of the planners of Operation Overlord to include photo and video journalist in the invading army to record the history for future generations. 

One of the few remaining B-26 Marauders that survived the war. They led the advance bombing of "The Atlantic Wall" before the actual landing. This aircraft was painstakingly restored in the US but gifted back to the museum. 

The museum is actually constructed on one of the 8000 bunkers the Germans built to protect the coast. New bunkers are still being discovered today as many were buried by bombing debris and only recently excavated. 

Another Higgins boat. 

The old and the new. The museum building was built to look like a bunker and incorporate the modern structure with the remains of the underlying bunker. 

Utah beach, which today looks like any ordinary beach. 

With Kim standing on the same sand that launched the final assault that ended WWII 

Champ du Boult Ride 2

Mont Saint Michel Revisited

Our decision to delay our tour for another day was a good one. An early start for the hour drive got us there in time to bike over which is restricted after 10 AM due to the crowds. 

The Mont Saint Michel Abbey is located within the city and island of Mont-Saint-Michel in Lower Normandy.

The abbey is an essential part of the structural composition of the town the feudal society constructed. On top, God, the abbey, and monastery; below this the Great halls, then stores and housing, and at the bottom fishermen and farmers' housing.

The history is too extensive to include but inhabitants started settling on this granite island accessible from the shoreline at low tides in the 4th century. Named for the archangel Saint Michael its religious history started in 708 when the angel instructed a local bishop to construct a place of worship at the top. Monks settled on the island and over its very long history oversaw the construction of the abbey.   

A photo captures its essence 

But seeing it is amazing. 

Kim insisted that we should ride our bikes from the mainland to the island, which is about two miles. Most people either walk or take a shuttle bus but riding over was a wonderful experience and a great photo op.

The island of Mont Saint Michel is the second most visited attraction in France next to the city of Paris. 

Until recently you had to cross the mud flats during low tide to get there. Due to its massive popularity the government banned cars from driving over, built extensive parking lots and a pedestrian and vehicle causeway to get there. 

We are here at the end of September but it is hard to imagine the crowds during the height of the summer season (probably rivals Venice). 

The quintessential photo upon approaching the island. 

Looking from afar you wonder how they were able to transport all the materials and build such a massive structure during the middle ages. Guess you can build almost anything with an inexhaustible supply of animal and human labor. The pyramids come to mind. 

We had to park our bike at the base since lugging them up and down the steep streets seemed senseless. Smart move but also prohibited. We locked our bikes although someone riding off with them seemed improbable. 

The closer you get the more amazing it looks. 

Looking back at the mud flats.

While some chose that route the paved walkway was a better choice. Guess walking in the steps of past pilgrims has some religious significance, but not for us. 

The gateway to the town. 

And across the protective drawbridge to discourage would be invaders. 

The narrow Grand Rue (main street) spirals up and around the town. It goes from steep, to very steep, to ridiculously steep, and ends with precarious steps as you approach the top.  

We stopped in at the information center to get a map. The English speaking clerk told us it normally takes 45 minutes to walk to the abbey (our Colorado legs and lungs got us there in 10-15 minutes). While waiting our turn she demonstrated her command of three languages. Not sure if she could have helped the Chinese or Japanese tourists. If you can speak only one language English is a safe bet. 

A relic from past conquests. 

The whole setup is very touristy that even the Disney imaginerians could not have done a better job designing. 

Another view of the abbey from down below. Gives new meaning to the word "up".

We decided not to tour the abbey but walked up these stairs to the main entrance.  

A ride through the countryside was more appealing than seeing the inside of another church - monks and all. 

Us in the foreground, abbey in the background. 

We tried to figure out how many stones it took to build this edifice, but decided it was far too many to count or imagine. 

We came up the Grand Rue but decided to walk along the rampart heading down. I wonder how many people who have sung our national anthem actually know what a "rampart" is. 

Looking back toward the coastline. 

A couple was nice enough to take our picture. No crummy selfie for us. 

The vista overlook from the rampart. Not an invading army in sight. 

Think how much better their observations would have been with one of these scopes, providing they had a Euro coin handy.

This way to the gift shop. 

But one last look back to the mainland. Notice that the tide is coming in and flooding the mud flats. Sure glad they built the causeway. 

Mother Poulard, a recent addition who became an institution. 

She settled on Mont Saint Michel and started making these now famous omelettes (French for omelette). Notice the copper bowls which help make the eggs frothy. 

Looks luscious 

But at 38 euros a bit pricey. Hell this is a tourist town. 

Quintessential Mont Saint Michel photo. 

2019 Holiday photo - hands down. 

One last photo with blue sky and bright sunshine. 

No pesky cyclists spoiling the picture. 

Or a more ancient looking rendering. 

Oops, we knew there was a bike path back but made a wrong turn. Better to carry the bikes up the stairs than double back. 

Look familiar. Yup this was our coffee stop from yesterday. Two days in a row so now we are regulars. 

Coffee was quite good and free refills from the self serve machine - now this is my kind of place. 

Back on the road for an abbreviated ride, but notice the looming storm clouds ahead. Maybe shorter than planned. 

We came upon these fields of "bluish" flowers.

But what can they be? These were obviously planted but do they yield a crop. 

We able to search for a similar image on the internet but the closest match was "phacelia". 

There was no apparent use of this plant other than maybe as a food source for honeybees. Will continue searching. 

Our route took us across the main road and up this road. This universal "picto-sign" means dead end. But that is for cars so we decided to forge ahead. Hell the road was clearly evident on my computer map. 

Unfortunately the road came to an abrupt end at a railroad crossing. There was a fence and gate so cars could not get across, but people on bikes can easily get around. Unfortunately the gate was locked and the fence extended part way along a ditch. Getting across the ditch was iffy. 

Not looking too promising. 

Well this harvested corn field was an option. 

So we decided to walk along the adjoining field until we could get across. No going back for us. 

Stay in the furrows and avoid the cut stalks. 

Oh come on how far can it be to the next road. 

Turns out is was about a mile. 

Could imagine the surprised look on the couple living in this house as we came walking out of the corn field. "Hey Pierre, you are not going believe this crazy couple pushing their bikes along the corn rows. Must be Americans."

The road and open railroad crossing. 

We are here but look how far we walked. 

Sad thing was that the rusty railroad tracks have probably not been used in years. 

The other side of our dead end road. 

At least we could ride our bikes on this side. Next time go back and try another option. 

Well were barely down the road before noticing that my rear tire was getting soft. Yup, a puncture and slow leak.

My least favorite thing on a ride is changing a flat. 

I did notice a burr stuck in my tire probably picked up while bushwhacking  through the corn field. 

This is our third European trip and first flat tire. 

This season we have about 12,000 wheel miles on our four tires and not one flat. 

Why here and why now. 

With storm clouds building I quickly get to work. 

Out goes the old tube, in goes the new tube. 

Pump away until the tire is firm enough to ride back to the car. 

Almost there and tire seems good. 

We beat the rain and were glad that our abbreviated ride gave us a shorter ride back to the car.