Friday, October 4, 2019

A Day In Paris

When we decided to spend our last full day in Paris with the Fullers we deferred to them on what we should do. Since this was their first visit and already had tours scheduled for other sites we agreed on the Louvre. 

Depending on your source the Louvre is the second most visited site, ahead of the Eiffel tower (3rd), and behind Disneyland (1st). Since these numbers include both domestic and foreign travelers it is understandable that fellow Europeans would prefer Disneyland (great for kids) over the Louvre (not great for kids). 

Since it was only about 2 KM (a little over a mile) from our hotel we decided to walk to the museum. Paris is a great walking city and a feast for the eyes and ears. A benefit of the centuries old height restriction (about five stories) there are no canyons of sky scrapers to block the sun and give that claustrophobic feeling. New since our last visit is the proliferation of bikes, scooters, and similar people movers. Darting in and out of the pedestrian crossings makes walking a blood sport. 



As we got closer this sign confirmed we were going in the right direction. 



We decided to take a tour instead of venturing around the museum on our own. The primary reason was to see the Mona Lisa which was an ordeal even with our tour group privileges. 


The iconic I. M. Pei designed glass pyramid. This area was a parking lot on our first visit in 1967. 


The pyramid from below. This addition was controversial and viewed as a grotesque modern appendage to a beautifully ornate Renaissance palace. This was a minor distraction as compared to the massive underground shopping mall guarding the only entrance/exit to the museum.  


Steve and I emerge from the new group reception area. 

Now for the most disappointing aspect of our tour. With millions of painting and art objects the number one attraction is the Mona Lisa. Painted by Leonardo da Vinci in 1503 it was found in his studio when he died in 1519. This being the 500th anniversary of his death this most famous of his works has been elevated to superstar status. 

Most of the visitors come specifically to see the picture and over 80% leave after their brief glimpse ignoring the other gazillion items in the building. So much for art appreciation. 

The line (in Disney fashion) snakes around and up four floors to the room where the painting is on display. This consumed almost half of our 2 hour tour. Small groups are led into a viewing area for about two minutes to see and photograph it. During our long wait the guide delivered a lengthy description and history of the painting. Knowing he would not have enough time during our viewing time this took our mind off the long wait and aching feet.  

There has been much speculation and you could fill a library with all that has been written about it. The biggest question is who is the subject. Some say it was the wife of a prominent patron while others have juxtaposed Leonardo's self portrait and believe it could be his own likeness. All in all it is captivating even without the hype. 




Although it is his most famous painting it is not his best nor biggest (maybe the last supper). We did see it when it was in New York in the sixties during its traveling years. Due to its fragility and transportation costs and logistics it will now remain in the Louvre for eternity. 


After our viewing moment it was more interesting to photograph the adoring crowds of picture takers. 


Another photo of me standing in front of the Mona Lisa. 




Steve and I with the "what's all the fuss about" look on our faces. The whole experience was disappointing, especially knowing that we missed a lot of other stuff waiting in line. 


Winged Victory (aka Nike - the goddess of victory) - another famous must see sculpture. 


Our last stop before heading out the door was the Venus de Milo. It is more appropriately Aphrodite since it was sculpted by the Greeks.  




Another view of the pyramid from below. Irrespective of whether you think it belongs, it is quite impressive. 




A closer look with the sharp contrast between the old and the modern. 


The Eiffel Tower from the Louvre. 
Always an impressive site. 




The menu from one of the many Starbucks that now dot the Parisian landscape. Nestled between the Mc Donald's and other American exports the street-scape has dramatically changed since our first visit over 50 years ago. 

One of the things we always admired about Europe is that it is so European, but not so much anymore. 



A classic entrance to the underground looking toward the Gare de Nord. 

After the morning at the Louvre, a bistro lunch, and walk back to our hotel we headed to the train for a return to the Airport Hilton for our flight back home the next morning. 

Not sure when we will return but as Bogart said in Casablanca - "We will always have Paris" 








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